Six (new) meals in … Montreal, the food-lover’s paradise
Superstar chef Chuck Hughes (Chuck's Day Off on Food Network Canada) working in the kitchen of his Montreal restaurant, Le Bremner.
COURTESY FOOD NETWORK CANADA
MONTREAL—With a great food city like this one, the eternal debate for a traveller is whether it’s better to revisit the old favourites or try something new. Over the past year, I’ve made several trips here and made a vow to search out some of the latest entries onto the culinary scene. I came up with these six winning entries that I’m happy to share with you.
LE BREMNER
The best dining news of the past year, in my book, was that superstar chef Chuck Hugheshas opened a second restaurant in Old Montreal. I was an early fan of his Garde Manger, before both it and Chuck became famous. It’s still great, but almost impossible to get into. But now comes another great dining spot. From the basement vibe, the friendly staff, the inventive cocktails and the cool music, you’ll know it’s a Hughes establishment. And the food sends out the same message. Spicy raw salmon ($16) is both tasty and beautiful, lobster toast au gratin ($22) is as fine a treatment of that crustacean as you’d expect from a dude with lobster tats on his arms, and the cornbread with broiled garlic shrimp ($20) will sing in your mouth for hours afterwards. (361 St. Paul E.; 514-544-0446; http://crownsalts.com/lebremner/)
PASTAGA
Martin Juneau is another magic name in the Montreal dining world and his latest, Pastaga, is a great experience on every level. It’s a wine bar, a restaurant and — coolest of all — a place with a giant’s chef’s table where you can be at action central while watching the latest Habs game on a giant screen. (It’s Montreal, remember.)
The atmosphere is super-casual, but the food is wearing black tie. Most small plates these days are becoming ho-hum affairs, but Juneau’s shrimp vol-au-vent sings with subtlety, his blood sausage tart has real depth of flavour and items like pork belly and guinea hen join crispy with succulent in a happy marriage. All of them average $15, so you can join with friends and have a fine feed. (6389 St. Laurent Blvd.; 438-381-6389; no website yet.)
LE HANGAR
Another popular name, that of Louis-François Marcotte, is attached to this fun and funky place in Griffintown, a newly gentrified area near downtown. It’s a refitted warehouse in the cement-floor, brick-walls, high-ceiling style but it lacks the chill that many such rooms generate. The food provides the warmth, a heavy dose of Italian mixed with a touch of Quebec. The mac-cheese with lobster and mushrooms ($20) will make you smile, the lamb cannelloni ($18) is different but delicious, and the Gaspé turbot served en papillote with clams ($22) has a rewarding delicacy to it. Dessert? I highly recommend the tiramisu sundae ($7). (1011 Wellington St.; 514-878-2112; http://resto-lehangar.com/fr/home.html)
LES 400 COUPS
No, it’s not named after the famous Truffaut film, but it will create the same feeling of inner joy that the cinematic masterwork does. Three of the brightest young things in Montreal (Marc-André Jetté, Patrice Demers and Marie-Josée Beaudoin) have united to create a smart, sophisticated place with a menu that keeps the dazzle factor on high. White beet soup ($12) with oysters and lemon confit is a keeper, the braised veal cheeks ($28) with black trumpet mushroom puree reaches new levels of intense flavour, and their lime curd ($10) with pistachios, vanilla and Hendrick’s Gin (!) is a taste sensation. If you’re looking for different, this is the destination! (400 Notre Dame E.; 514-985-2400; www.les400coups.ca)
GALANGA BISTRO THAI
I know you might think it’s silly to go to Montreal for Thai food when we have so much of it here in Toronto, but this place is really good and who knows when the craving is going to strike you? It’s bright and cozy (40 seats) and you can tell you’re in good hands from the first bite of grilled beef salad ($9) which zings with bright, lively tastes. Sautéed shrimp with eggplant ($15) is a grand study in textures, with crispy, soft and chewy all combining superbly. Even an old standard like green chicken curry ($14) is carried off with aplomb. (1231 Lajoie Ave.; 438-381-3289; no website.)
LE SMOKING VALLÉE
Here’s the latest hot new place in Montreal, found in that unlikely neighbourhood in the southwest called St-Henri (or “the Hen”). The wood-panelled walls and low-hanging industrial lamps give it an intimate air, the staff couldn’t be hotter, you’re allowed to bring your own wine, and the food is off the charts. Shrimp ravioli with a lemon beurre blanc ($12) are like a kiss from the sea. Risotto with duck gizzards, fois gras and pear ($24) may sound sludgy but it sparkles on the palate. And their salty butterscotch frozen parfait ($7) has my vote for dessert of the year. (4370 Notre Dame W.; 514-932-0303; www.smoking-vallee.com).
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